Day#2 Alexandria:
We had an early morning pick up for trip to Alexandria. Our driver got us from hotel at 7:00 am! The three hour drive to Alexandria and back was like a day trip to Calgary. Not something we do often but we were emotionally prepared for how long it would take. The kids slept a little in the van and did lots of reading on their Kobos.
Soha was our guide in ‘Alex’. She met us at the catacombs of Kom El Shoqafa. When Hanan planned this part of the trip out for us I was a little worried it would be gruesome. Maybe dark, smelly, and musty. It wasn’t. It was cool and dry, a nice break from the Egyptian heat and a chance to stretch our legs after the car ride.
In the catacombs Soha showed us how the builders set up things to confuse and confound grave robbers. One way was how they used murals that looked like doors to draw attention away from the hidden passages. The art in the catacomb was a mixture of different roman designs and an odd mishmash of Egyptian, Roman, and Greek religious symbolism. These catacombs were for the rich. Not the Pharo-level rich. It was also a business. The builders of these catacombs had to plan out how far they could build and expand to allow for the most graves and the most profit.
Next on our stop was the Roman Theatre in Alexandria. It was uncovered during the excavation and preparation of a shopping centre. I feel a tiny bit bad for the land developer that couldn’t go ahead with their deal. Mostly I felt excited to explore ruins of classrooms and houses. Soha pointed out where grain and water would have been stored by the ancient Egyptians and Romans living there.
For lunch we had a clear view of the Mediterranean from our restaurant.
The Citadel of Qaitbay (#6 above in the instagram post) is the old site of the Lighthouse of Alexandria one of the Ten Wonders of the world. The citadel was a nice respite from the heat. The cool interior was once a defensive structure complete with canons and even a hole to pour hot oil down on would be invaders. Just east of the Citadel along the coast was the new Library of Alexandria.
Bibliotheca Alexandria is a modern design delight. As a tourist visiting the new Library of Alexandria, I was immediately struck by the thoughtful architecture of the building. The outside south facing wall is covered with the alphabets of all the known languages of the world. Inside there is a beautifully designed and modern library. The supporting columns mimic lotus plants. The windowed North facing roof allows gentle light to filter through but not the hot light of the day.
The library’s state-of-the-art facilities, including lecture halls, exhibition spaces, and a planetarium. We only saw the planetarium from the outside. Overall, the new Library of Alexandria is a must-visit destination for anyone interested in history, culture, and learning in a modern and inspiring setting.
Day#3- Cairo:
This was our second and final day in Cairo. There is so much to see in a city with such a rich history. Hanan packed in some of the important sites for us though. We visited the step pyramid in Saqqara which is the first pyramid not only in Egypt, but in the whole world.
After that, we visited a carpet school which are famous for how the children make perfectly detailed carpets with quick hands. These schools are government supported and provide a way for the children to have an education they might not otherwise be able to afford. Our children tried to do the rapid weave/tug/cut movement the workers there did. They could not replicate the speed the children had. It was a reminder of how lucky we are to have publicly funded schools in Canada.
For lunch Hanan took us to a restaurant that made one of our favourite Egyptian dishes, Koshari! Koshari is a simple but delicious dish that combines pasta, tomato sauce, crispy onions, chickpeas or lentils, and rice. The simplicity of it baffles me. The ingredients are basic but when combined the whole things is fantastic. We’ve made it at home several times and having it in Egypt was both a comfort and a thrill.
After lunch our driver woven his way through the busy and noisy streets until we came to Ibn Tulun mosque. This mosque is considered one of the oldest in Egypt. We climbed to the top of the minaret and looked down on the mosque and the surrounding area. The call to prayer is still projected from there but it is done through speakers. After that Hanan showed us through the mosque and pointed out the important features like the mihrab. The mihrab is a niche that points the way towards Mecca.
In the cool evening we enjoyed a felucca ride on the Nile. A felucca is the Egyptian word for a small boat. If I have learned anything from travel it is that Desmond loves boats! In Germany we did some sailing and motoring on the lake. He certainly prefers the motoring. This felucca ride took us around the Nile in the heart of Cairo. It was a great way to see the beautiful night lights of the city.
It was getting late but like I said Hanan packed our days full. But we had to visit the Khan el-khalili markets and El-moez street. Hanan spoiled us all with sugar cane juice and other sweet treats. The bright colours and beautiful displays drew our eyes towards all the goods that were on display. There were many calls from the shop owners who wanted to make sales. It was a delight. While there Hanah also showed us the old buildings that were once schools and water wells for the community. These were all built and paid for by the mosques in the area as a means of community support and development.
After our time at the market she loaded us up with the snacks we headed to the train station for our overnight journey to Luxor. To learn more about the Sleeper Train read here
We are so grateful for Hanan and all the care she gave to us and the children. If you are thinking of going to Egypt send me a note or message Hanan on Facebook. She is a delight!
Ball Family Travel 